This time of year, and with no bucket calves to use up extra milk, we often have a pot of skim or buttermilk to spare. Instead of sending it out to the pig pen or chicken run as is, we let it clabber for a day or two — until it looks like yogurt, in other words — and then make cottage cheese. Not a difficult or time-consuming process: just stir the clabber with a whisk, then warm it slowly (in a sink of hot water, if you have room, or just on the back of the stove, maybe with a flame tamer) until it feels warm to the hand. Stir it once in a while to distribute the heat evenly. Let it sit for a bit, then ladle out the curds and let them drain awhile — then salt, and maybe add a little cream. Raw milk ferments are delcious. The pigs and chickens will still appreciate the whey.